Magical hours

Tango Mar is one of the few privileged places from where you can see both the sunrise and the sunset, although the latter is a little to the side and behind the mountains. To experience a little more of the magical hour – this is what the moments before sunset is called, when the sky is painted in bright colors and everything takes on a warmer tone – from Tango Mar you can take the ‘Magical Hours’ tour.

On this tour, the part gliding by the mangroves can be included only when there is high tide, and the bioluminescence only when there is a new moon. And of course…there is no promise that the sunset will be equally spectacular every day. Everything goes at the rhythm of nature, but that is part of the adventure.

The tour starts at 4 in the afternoon; By car we go to the other side of Bahía Tambor, to the estuary of the Pochote River, about 15 minutes from Tango Mar. Years ago, this was only a fishing area. There is still fishing, but now boats are also arriving to pick up tourists. William is our guide with Blueline.

We are lucky, there is high tide so we can take a trip along the mangroves in the estuary. These mangroves, I learn, not only capture more CO2 than other trees and are a good barrier against hurricanes, but they are also home to some 200 species of animals. And as is customary in this region: wherever we go we are accompanied by animals, in this case we spot several blue and white herons.

We glide calmly through the waters, and from time to time I close my eyes…pure pleasure.

After the mangrove it is time to go to Muertos beach, where the sunset awaits us. We head towards the bay, flanked by mountains that end in the shape of an alligator on one side, a crocodile on the other… with a bit of fantasy. By now the sun is clearly setting, giving a golden glow to the water and sky.

We couldn’t find out where the name of the beach comes from, a name that seems quite gloomy to me. One explanation appears to be that because the beach is still so desolate and virgin, it seems ‘dead’ (there is nothing fun to do). Be that as it may, when we arrive it is anything but gloomy. The boat stops right in front of the beach, where some young people from Blueline welcome us to a table with delicious fruits, patacones, fruit juices, beers, sangria, etc. Perfect to get ‘in the mood’ and enjoy the sunset.

The beach is beautiful. White and warm, with very gentle waves. Almost out of sight is the restaurant ‘Los Vivos’, for those who want to eat a little more, or even wish to stay. I keep to the beach, and from a log in the sand I see dozens of hermit crabs walking from one side to the other, getting into the sand and coming out again.

And then… the sunset. Spectacular. The cameras are ready, we all try to capture the impossible: the exact feeling of experiencing so much beauty. However, it is as always: to really grasp it, you have to experience it.

We stayed a little longer, as if we were waiting for the sun to return, like the singers at the end of the show when the applause continues. But there is no second round, and we go back to the boats.

In the dark water now – it’s new moon – William explains bioluminescence: a light produced when certain microorganisms transform their chemical energy into light. Sometimes it is seen as a blue or green phenomenon in the water, when there are many organisms.

We didn’t see it like that today, but William, who researched the topic during his studies, uses a bucket of water to allow us to experience it up close: when he throws the water into the boat, it reacts with the oxygen and little lights are seen. For a better example, his companion Allen jumps into the water – thousands of little lights twinkle around him. Like little stars in the sea.

Impressed, almost in silence, we return to the estuary, where we say goodbye to the guides, grateful for the beautiful experiences we had – it really were several magical hours. Time to take the road back to Tango Mar and end the day with a delicious dinner.